Insanity on High

“With 7stacks, you get almost the same functionality as the OS X stacks, but with a more “Windows 7″ appearance.”

Example of 7Stacks in action.

Try it out! Totally rocks!

7Stacks

That’s right, they finally realized that we’ve been changing our logon screens ever since Windows XP (Somebody at Microshaft must have gotten a hold of Windows XPirated ). Though this feature was designed for OEMs (for you n00bl3ts out there, that means computer manufactures) to customize the logon screen, it still works for us.
There are two ways to do this; the easy way and the hard way (both are legally free).

1. The hard Way: (Read this first and you’ll understand why the easy way rocks)
See:
Windows 7 to officially support logon UI background customization
by Rafael Rivera from “Within Windows”

2. The Easy Way:
Tweaks.com Logon Changer for Windows 7

I chose the eazy way because I am A. lazy and 2. I discovered it first.

Enjoy!

Here’s a collection of links to articles other people have written describing repair and modification of MK1 Volkswagens.  Enjoy!

VW Diesel Tachometer – Nifty Write up on how to drive VDO and after market Tachometers using a light sensor.  The author of the article was a NASA engineer!  He also sells part kits and provides detailed instructions.

How to add a W terminal to a non W alternator – Instructions on how do “tachofy” your MK1 diesel by adding a W terminal where it doesn’t exist and modifying a VDO tachometer from a gasser to work on signal from the alternator.

Make Your N/A Diesel a Faster Car – Tips on how to increase milage and power on 1.5 and 1.6 Lieter Volkswagen diesels.  Ranging form changing your air filter, all the way up to adding a turbo.  Includes information on injection pump timing too.

Brian0’s How Do I Do That’s – Article on the Rabbit Owners Club Forum that describes fixes for quite a few common problems in aging A1 Volkswagens.

More to come, stay tuned!

Recently  purchased a 1984 Volkswagen Rabbit Diesel…I’ve fallen in love.  Will post updates on modifications as time permits!

Turns out, leopard kicks ass! Now all I have to do is figure out why my links don’t work =/ Bear with me!

Today’s article will cover the installation of an electric fuel pump on 6.9 and 7.3 Liter IDI Diesels.  My 1989 F350 suffered from leaky lines and a defective fuel tank selector valve.  This rendered my rear tank useless (I could run anywhere from 3-50 miles before the engine died…with a full tank).  This left me stranded several times after killing my batteries in an attempt to re-gain prime.  It was time to make a few changes.

You’re probably asking yourself, “which pump should I use?”  The factory mechanical pump moves about 30GPH at 5-7psi.  Personally, I’m using a a Pro Comp Black (part #2803) which flows 140GPH at 9psi with a Pro Comp 2851 fuel pressure regulator (set to 6psi).

Here’s a comparison of several pumps suitable for our application:

If you like, you can even use a cheapo Mr. Gasket pump ($25-$40) which can be found at most part houses.  Once you choose a pump, you will need to obtain the following parts before starting the job:

• A fuel pump block-off plate (diamond-shaped small block chevy type works just fine)
• A standard Bosch-type relay
• Some wire (I used some 10 gauge that was sitting in the garage, you could get away with 14 gauge…I prefer the over kill)
• Fuse holder and fuse
• (Depending on the pump you choose) a fuel pressure regulator

Let’s get to work!  First off, I would recommend bypassing the stock lift pump all together.  DO NOT feed fuel from your electric pump into the mechanical pump!  If the diaphragm ruptures in this configuration you risk filling your crank case with diesel fuel, this WILL CAUSE CATASTROPHIC ENGINE FAILURE!  You don’t necessarily have to replace the stop pump with a block off plate, it won’t hurt anything to leave it unhooked.  I chose to install the block-off plate for two reasons: 1. Microscopic power gain because the engine no longer has to operate the pump 2. the block-off plate is the only piece of chrome on my engine.

Step 1: Choose a mounting location for your pump.  Remember that electric pumps are pushers, not pullers.  Try to mount the pump as close to the tanks as possible (the output of the tank selector valve should do nicely).

Step 2: Use 3/8″ fuel hose to connect selector valve to pump and pump to engine.  If you like, you can re-use the stock metal line feed line, but i would recommend running hose straight to the motor.  Be sure to use a fuel filter between the pump and tanks!

Step 3: Remove mechanical fuel pump and install block-off plate.  This will be much easier if you remove the passenger side tire and wheel well…you might be able to pull it off without doing so, not sure.

Step 4: Wire the pump to the relay as follows.

Note: I used the red wire with the green stripe to trigger the relay.  Said wire provides 12 Volts to the fuel shut off solenoid with the key in the “run” position.

Step 5: test.  If successful, proceed to step 6.

Step 6: celebrate with the beer of your choice.

This article is subject to revision and change whenever I feel like it.  I have a few part numbers to add, and more proof reading to do…I just wanted to post it now in the hopes that it might be useful.  If you have any questions, feel free to drop me a comment.

Todays maintenance tip addresses our friend the Crank case Depression Regulator (A.K.A. the CDR valve).   The concept is simple: It allows blow-by gasses to be drawn out of the crank case into the intake manifold at low engine speed.  Vacuum created by the engine at higher RPMS pulls the diaphragm in the valve closed to regulate the amount of oil vapor drawn into the intake.  If the diaphragm is torn or gummed up the valve will remain open, causing excessive oil consumption.

The CDR valve should be cleaned every other oil change to prevent the build up of “tar” (oil residue baked onto the diaphragm by the heat of the engine).  Failure to do so will result in premature failure.

Before we begin, here are a couple of pictures of the part in question.

Bottom view

Top view

Location

Removal

1. Remove the air cleaner (be sure to cover the intake port with a clean cloth)
2. Remove the 2 bolts attaching the valve to the back of the intake (usually takes a 13mm wrench)
3. Tilt the valve back enough to seperate it from the intake.
4. Pull up.  This will usually require much more force than you’ll feel comfortable using, rocking side to side as you pull normally helps.

Cleaning

1. Soak the valve in gasoline for 30 minutes to an hour.
2. “Dunk” the valve a couple times to clear out some of the gunk.
3. Pour clean gasoline through both ports until it runs clear.
4. Shake the valve out and let it dry throughly.

Test Procedure

Using your mouth, blow into the little hole on (near the center) on the top of the valve, DO NOT use compressed air, this will rupture the diaphragm.  You should hear a little click, this means the diaphragm is moving freely.  If it doesn’t click, or if bits of rubber come out during cleaning, replace it.

Installation

1. Wipe and grease/dirt away from the mating surface between the valve and the intake.
2. Install a new rubber grommet where the valve mates to the intake.
3. Press the valve back into the hose coming from the valley pan (it helps if you loosen the band clamp…squeeze the nipple with a pair of pliers)
4. Bolt it down and install the air cleaner

Congratulations, you’re done (yay)!

Just wanted to let the general public know that I am not dead, I’ve just been working overtime and taking advantage of the warm weather we’ve been having to work on the truck.  I should be updating fairly soon (at least the CDR article).  Other than that, life has been wonderful, God has been gracious, and I’m still kicking.

Thank you for your patience,

~Jon

I’d like to take a moment to inform the readers (hi guys) of a few projects/articles I’ve been working on.

First off, I’ll be adding a fair amount of detail (pictures, part numbers, and instructions) to my existing articles.  I’m not  satisfied with the way they turned out…I can do much better.  Second, my brother and I have been working on his new truck, a 1990 Dodge D250 with a first gen intercooled Cummins.   Not to worry, my focus remains on IDI engines…I just want to do something nice for the Dodge crowd

The truck is moving along nicely, the new bed is on, transmission filter has been changed, new master cylinder (and everything related), etc.  I’m currently working on a  guide to electric fuel pumps.  We’ll cover reasons to convert, how to select the right pump, and provide pictures, diagrams, and step-by-step instructions to take the guess work out installation.  Within the next month or so, I’ll show you how to install headlight relays, clean/test your CDR Valve, troubleshoot the dreaded “sinking” brake pedal,  and build a custom fuse block.

Stay tuned, plenty of updates are on their way…It’s all up hill from here.

~Jon

Here is a list of part numbers, prices, and dealers for parts I could not find locally.   I will post updates on a semi-regular basis.  If you have any suggestions (cheaper price, new part outlet, etc.) please let me know via comment or email.

Electrical Connectors, Pigtails, etc.

Alternator connector (external voltage regulator) – part #ECH  EC69 – $5.49 from Napa

Voltage regulator connector (external) – ACDELCO Part # PT2030 – $2.40 from Rock Auto

Horn relay – STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # RY78T – $4.98 from Rock Auto

Heating, A/C, Cooling

Heater control valve – FOUR SEASONS Part # 74808 – $10.13 from Rock Auto